Exploring Fuvahmulah: A Haven for Nature Lovers
Fuvahmulah, meaning "Island of the Areca nut palms" in local lingo, is possibly ranking as one of the best shark diving destinations in the world. The island's unique underwater topography has a submerged reef extending deep towards the ocean floor.
Photo by Ahmed Saalim Hussain
Fuvahmulah lies below the Equator. It is a stark contrast to the fancy resorts that dot the Maldives. Here, in the 800-kilometer chain of coral atolls, is a community of over 8,500 people. It is bustling with life and activity.
Unlike other islands of Maldives, Fuvahmulah is not surrounded by a coral lagoon. It is a one-island atoll with tropical forests, freshwater lakes, and lush marshes. Its special habitat has a rich array of plants and animals found nowhere else. It is a haven for scuba divers and nature enthusiasts.
The island of Fuvahmulah is surrounded not by lagoons, but by a reef flat that abruptly drops into the deep ocean. In the past, navigating ships to the island's shore was perilous due to this sharp drop-off. To facilitate safe access, eight man-made channels, known as neru or elhe', were created around the island's perimeter. Each channel is associated with a fanno, a communal gathering point shaded by coconut palms, where islanders converge to await the arrival of vessels, observe weather patterns, or simply socialize with neighbors against the backdrop of the ocean breeze and sunset.
The names of these channels and fannos, such as Rasgefanno, Bodofanno, Anbul, Maaneyre, and Badahalfanno, offer insights into the historical significance of each location and the events that transpired there. These landmarks serve as reminders of the island's rich maritime heritage and the close-knit community that has thrived here for generations.
Photo by Nattu Adnan
Fuvahmulah sustains itself with working farms. They grow mangoes, taros, and many vegetables. But beyond its fertile lands, there is a thriving fishing industry. It has sustained Fuvahmulah for over a thousand years. Its rich waters teem with pelagic species. They include tuna and hammerhead sharks, as well as whale sharks and tiger sharks.
The baseline studies conducted on the reefs of Fuvahmulah reveal promising figures for live coral coverage. The east reef boasts an impressive mean of 41% live coral coverage, while the west reef surpasses even that, with a mean percentage of 64.1% live coral coverage.
Comparatively, these numbers are significantly higher than the country's average mean of live coral coverage, which stands at 19.2%, as reported by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) post-2016 coral bleaching studies. This indicates that Fuvahmulah's reefs are thriving ecosystems with healthy coral populations, underscoring the island's importance as a biodiversity hotspot within the Maldives.
Source: Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah
Photo by Shark Island Dive
The Thoondu beach of Fuvahmulah is a remarkable destination, embodying the island's unique geomorphological identity. The shifting pebble sands, polished smooth by the relentless action of the sea waves, create a dynamic and captivating landscape that captivates visitors of all ages.
A highlight of the Thoondu experience is the formation of the Bissaaveli, a natural phenomenon where portions of sand migrate towards the reef, forming a temporary lagoon embraced by the pebble sands and shoreline. When fully formed, the Bissaveli created a natural shallow swimming pool, providing an idyllic setting to enjoy a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters. This spectacle attracts locals and tourists alike, who gather for picnics and celebrations amidst the natural beauty of the beach.
Another significant event celebrated at Thoondu is the sighting of the new moon of Ramadan. People from all districts of the island come together under the shade of shoreline trees, partaking in traditional festivities and culinary delights. From homemade coconut and jaggery patties to smoked fish, boiled taro, and pandan-scented rice pudding, the celebration is a feast for the senses, steeped in the island's rich cultural heritage and culinary traditions.
As night falls and the new moon emerges, the harmonious gathering beneath the vast night sky serves as a poignant reminder of the enduring connection between the people of Fuvahmulah and the land and sea that sustain them across generations.
Photo by Peppiiii
UNESCO declared Fuvamulah a biosphere reserve in 2020. This recognized its ecological importance. It was a testament to the island's commitment to conservation and sustainability. Here, fishing is not an occupation but a way of life, guided by the principle of giving back to the ocean. Like other Maldivian islanders, they use traditional pole-and-line techniques. These methods keep fish populations healthy for generations to come.
Bandaara Kilhi (literally "State Lake") covers about 14 acres and averages 12 feet deep, which makes it the largest lake by volume in the Maldives accommodating the largest freshwater reserve in the country. Bounded by dense vegetations of mainly ferns, screwpine, tropical almond, cheese fruit, banana trees, coconut palms, taro fields, and mango trees.
Source: Wikipedia
Photo by Matheen Faiz
Fuvahmulah is also a paradise for surfers. With no surrounding lagoons to break the waves, the island is often surrounded by swells that attract surfers from far and wide.
For those new to surfing, Geragando Fanno (Fanno Surf) provides the perfect setting to learn and hone your skills. During high tide, the waves breaking off the reef gradually roll towards the shore, creating gentle conditions ideal for beginners to practice their techniques in a safe and supportive environment. Whether you're a seasoned pro or a novice eager to catch your first wave, Fuvahmulah offers an unparalleled surfing experience that promises memories to last a lifetime.
Photo by Dive Magazine
The Tiger Sharks of Fuvahmulah
In the waters around Fuvahmulah, the islanders have a close bond with the tiger sharks there. For centuries, a large population of tiger sharks has formed an amazing bond with local fishermen. They have become used to feeding on the leftovers from fishing. Over 200 individuals, including pregnant females, gather near the harbor entrance. They create a spectacle. It has made Fuvahmulah a top spot for shark diving fans worldwide.
Tiger sharks, known for their nocturnal hunting habits, exhibit an interesting behavior pattern around Fuvahmulah harbor in the Maldives. Typically, these apex predators tend to swim close to shore at night to feed, utilizing the cover of darkness to hunt effectively. During the day, they typically retreat to deeper waters.
However, in areas like Fuvahmulah harbor where food supplies are plentiful, larger tiger sharks can often be observed patrolling the waters even during daylight hours. The abundance of prey, coupled with the strategic location of the harbor, creates an enticing feeding ground for these magnificent creatures. As a result, visitors to Fuvahmulah may have the unique opportunity to witness these impressive predators in action, whether it's day or night.
Photo by Jono Allen
Locals call it the Tiger Zoo. It sits at the entrance of the island’s harbor. It's a 10-minute boat ride away. Before each dive, a thorough safety briefing ensures that measures are in place. They are to help in case of any incidents. It will also repel sharks if needed and guide the group to the nearby reef. Diving in shallow water has challenges. Upon entry, divers need negative buoyancy and must make a quick descent. But, the veteran boat crew ensures a smooth transition to the water. They make it easy even for divers carrying cameras.
As divers approach the spot, they often see massive tiger sharks. The sharks glide through the deep blue waters. They signal the promise of an unforgettable encounter with these magnificent creatures. The dive guides' careful approach becomes clear when they reach the harbor sea floor. They put fish-tails under heavy stones to attract the tiger sharks.
Lonu Ahmed, a resident of Fuvahmulah, challenged the long-held fear of tiger sharks among islanders. A decade ago, he defied convention by swimming alongside these creatures, discovering they primarily fed on discarded tuna scraps, not live fish. His bravery and advocacy reshaped community attitudes, inspiring a new generation to embrace tiger sharks and recognize their importance in the ocean ecosystem. Ahmed's message emphasizes respect, coexistence, and appreciation for these majestic creatures, fostering a harmonious relationship between humans and sharks in Fuvahmulah.
Source: The Guardian
Photo by Jono Allen
After that comes a mesmerizing spectacle. The predators circle around. Older, more experienced sharks get their snacks. Meanwhile, younger ones navigate the feeding frenzy. Despite their imposing presence, tiger sharks move with slow, deliberate grace. They show little interest in the divers, but command their utmost respect.
Despite their fearsome reputation, the tiger sharks show no signs of aggression towards divers, their focus seemingly fixed on the abundant marine life that thrives in these nutrient-rich waters and their tuna snacks. It's a rare and magical moment, a fleeting glimpse into the hidden world of the ocean's apex predators.
For the diver, it's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat, a memory that will stay with them forever. And for the tiger sharks, it's just another day in the vast and timeless expanse of the ocean, where they reign supreme as kings of the underwater realm.
Photo by Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah
Divers watch this breathtaking ballet unfold before them. They fill with awe and admiration. It is for the beauty and majesty of these remarkable creatures. This shows again that Fuvahmulah is a sanctuary. There, humans and sharks coexist in harmony.
Fuvahmulah is not only about tiger sharks. It has over 20 known dive sites. Each has pristine reefs and draws many pelagic fish. Because it's near the equator, the diving here isn’t affected by the seasons. This means you can have great dives here all year.
Diving in Fuvahmulah offers a truly unparalleled adventure in the Maldives. Unlike typical dive sites characterized by submerged pinnacles, Fuvahmulah's unique topography features towering cliffs rising from the depths of the Indian Ocean. These vertical walls provide a stunning backdrop for exploring a diverse ecosystem teeming with marine life.
The absence of submerged pinnacles allows for uninterrupted exploration of vibrant hard coral reefs and hidden crevices. This unique environment attracts majestic megafauna, including sharks, rays, and whales, offering divers rare encounters with these magnificent creatures.
Whether you're a seasoned diver or a beginner, Fuvahmulah's dive sites cater to all experience levels. From leisurely explorations of intricate coral formations to thrilling encounters with pelagic species, every dive promises an unforgettable underwater experience filled with adventure and wonder.
Photo by Extreme Dive Fuvahmulah
Encountering Scalloped Hammerhead sharks is common in Fuvahmulah, with sightings year-round. Divers may witness schools of hammerheads hunting in pelagic feeding areas, particularly between October and April. While smaller hammerheads are harmless, caution is advised with the larger and more formidable Great Hammerheads.
Photo by Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah
The resident tiger sharks first made Fuvahmulah famous. But, visitors can also get close to thresher sharks and manta rays. They can also see scalloped hammerheads. They can also see oceanic whitetips, silvertips, grey reefs, and whitetip reefs. Whale sharks also make an appearance every year as well as black oceanic manta rays. In fact, Fuvahmulah may be one of the best places in Asia. It's great if you want to dive with many big animals. It is a wild and unknown place.
The house reef of Fuvahmulah boasts numerous cleaning stations where thresher sharks, along with other shark species, visit to groom themselves. While some cleaning stations are located at depths of around 40 meters, in Fuvahmulah, under specific conditions, thresher sharks ascend to cleaning stations at depths of 12-15 meters. This phenomenon typically occurs during high tide, and on occasion, observers may witness the sharks leaping out of the water. The likelihood of encountering thresher sharks at these cleaning stations is exceptionally high throughout the year
Photo by Pelagic Divers Fuvahmulah
A Paradise of Biodiversity
Throughout history, Maldivians have judged Fuvahmulah as the most beautiful island in the Maldives. Fuvahmulah has many habitats. They range from tropical woods and wetlands to lakes. They include well-vegetated marshes and different types of sandy and gravel beaches. Plus, it has fertile lands. They have more humus than any other island in the Maldives. The island has two freshwater lakes. It also has many swamps and marshes. These areas provide habitat to unique plant and animal species. They are not found anywhere else in the Maldives.
Dhadimagi Kilhi stands as one of Fuvahmulah's two freshwater lakes, nestled amidst vast expanses of wetlands, all forming a protected reserve on the island. Embraced by lush greenery, this area teems with diverse plant and animal life, offering a sanctuary for wildlife enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
Photo by Ahmed Saalim Hussain
Among such species, the common moorhen is a bird. It is native to Fuvahmulah only in the Maldives. The North of Dhadimagi Kilhi has the largest Jambul groves in the Maldives. Jambul is extinct elsewhere in the country. Fuvahmulah is also the largest producer of mangoes in the Maldives. Mango trees are common there. Every year, the island produces hundreds of thousands of mangoes. Fuvahmulah also grows pineapples and oranges. You can't find these fruits anywhere else in the country.
The Common Moorhen, affectionately known as Valikukulhi by locals, holds a special place as Fuvahmulah's native bird. Sporting a striking black body with white feathers adorning its lower back, this bird stands out with its vibrant appearance. Its beak, gleaming red with a yellowish tip, and yellowish legs with a red smear add to its distinct charm.
Resembling the water-hen commonly found across the Maldives, the Valikukulhi captivates the hearts of locals, who often keep these birds as cherished pets. With its unique features and endearing presence, the Common Moorhen contributes to the rich biodiversity and cultural heritage of Fuvahmulah.
Photo by Mohamed Kaisan
The wetland areas of Fuvahmulah have dense vegetation. It ranges from ferns to reeds to taro fields. There is lots of water spinach called Mahilanbo. There are also many plant varieties. These include jambul, pond-apple, mango, pineapple, screwpine, and tropical almond. Also, cheese fruit, ambarella, and banana. Fuvahmulah is also home to farmland. Locals grow crops. These include cucumber, tomato, carrot, cabbage, pepper, capsicum, eggplant, and ladies' fingers.
Fuvahmulah is renowned among Maldivians for its abundant Taro (Olhu Ala) plantations, which stretch across the entire island. Taro is cultivated for its starchy, spherical underground stems, which are a staple food in the Maldives.
However, the locals of Fuvahmulah often face teasing from residents of other islands due to their relatively smaller stature. They are humorously referred to as "Fuvahmulaku Ala Buri," which translates to "Taro stumps of Fuvahmulah." Despite the playful banter, the residents of Fuvahmulah take pride in their island's rich agricultural heritage and the vital role Taro plays in their diet and culture.
Photo by Unknown
Fuvahmulah defies the typical agricultural limitations of the archipelago with its fertile soil, yielding a diverse array of fruits and vegetables. The island boasts produce ranging from aubergines to watermelons. Its unique ecosystem supports yam-lined lakeshores, family farming plots, and rare fruits like pineapples and grapes.
Despite challenges like theft from fruit bats during peak cultivation, Fuvahmulah's agricultural abundance and cleanliness make it a unique gem in the Maldives, though sustainability concerns loom over its rapidly evolving ecosystem.
Photo by Naj
Another attraction is the Fuvahmulah Nature Park, located in Dhadimagi Kilhi. Fuvahmulah Nature Park has the protected wetlands Bandaara Kilhi and Dhadimagi Kilhi. It is one of the first wetland parks in the Maldives. The boardwalk in the nature park allows you to see panoramic views of the kilhi. The park has bicycles, canoes, and paddle boats renting facilities, which you can use enjoy the lake.
While in Fuvahmulah, don't overlook the opportunity to indulge in a mud bath at Koda Kilhi. Apart from being a relaxing experience, some believe it offers skin benefits. Accessible via a short trek from the main road or a canoe ride through the lake, it's advisable to have a local guide accompany you.
Photo by Visit Fuvahmulah
Immerse in Cultural Heritage
Besides to its natural wonders, the island has rich culture and history. The historical and cultural landmarks offer insights into the island's storied past. One of them is Vasho Veu (Big Round Well) in the Dhoondigan district. It is one of the last communal water wells used by ancient Maldivians. The Havitha on the island is an ancient Buddhist stupa said to promote fertility. The Gemmiskiy mosque, reportedly built in the 1300s, is an old mosque. Throughout history, people have said that the water from Gemmiskiy well tastes different. It tastes different depending on which of its four corners you get it from. This has always encouraged visitors to try it. Another local experience to try is Kattelhi. Fishermen use specific techniques to catch the fish. The fish lurk at depths over 200 meters. Prepare your tastebuds for "an unusual encounter." The species is not only local but also a specialty. Many see it as a key part of the Fuvahmulah experience.
Promethichthys prometheus, is a deep-sea fish found along continental slopes and oceanic islands, known locally as "Kattelhi" in Fuvahmulah. This species, belonging to the snake mackerel family, holds a special place in the culinary tradition of the island.
Considered a local delicacy, Kattelhi is highly prized for its unique flavor and texture. Found in abundance in the waters surrounding Fuvahmulah, it is primarily caught at night when it migrates to midwater to feed on fish, cephalopods, and crustaceans.
Beyond its culinary significance, Kattelhi holds a place in the folklore and tradition of Fuvahmulah, contributing to the island's unique intangible identity. Tales of Kattelhi are woven into the fabric of local stories, adding to the cultural richness of the island community.
Photo by Visit Maldives
Freshly caught Kattelhi is often prepared in a broth, accompanied by boiled taro, rice, chili, and lime, creating a delightful late-night meal celebration.
Photo by Visit Maldives
In 2010, while excavating for a well in the Fuvahmulah Hoadhandhu Ward, a coral stone casket was unearthed, revealing captivating artifacts. Measuring 10 inches in width, 11 inches in length, and 8 inches in height, the casket contained an intricately crafted animal figurine made from stone, accompanied by cowrie shells, a conch shell, and large cowrie shells.
Such findings provide valuable insights into the island's rich history and underscore the importance of preserving and respecting its cultural heritage for the benefit of future generations.
Source: Malikuaddu
Photo by Malikuaddu
The ruins of the Fuvahmulah Havitta, a Buddhist stupa located in the northeast of Fuvahmulah, likely mark the site of an ancient monastery. A stupa, derived from the Sanskrit word meaning "heap," typically takes the form of a hemispherical structure—a dome-shaped sanctuary for meditation. References to this ancient site is found in the Fuvahmulah Rashoveshi, the poetic composition by Kariyya Kalhuthuthu Didi speaks of the relics discovered within its grounds during past explorations.
The havitta was looked upon, a portion of it dug open,
two or three containers made of stone were found,
inside them were golden tins, haikals, and lamps,
smaller artefacts of gold, bronze and copper.
Witnessed by the eyes of the people, big and small from each ward,
Chants of praise sung in rhapsody, for the leader of this esteemed endeavour,
who would duly transfer to Male’ the capital
the relics of Fuvahmulah found inside the ancient Havitta mound.
The verses, translated from Dhivehi, offer insight into the circumstances surrounding the sites and artefacts of the island’s ancient heritage. They recount how, following the conversion of the Maldives to Islam, the once-prominent sites were gradually buried under layers of sand. Additionally, the temple structures within the vicinity were repurposed as mosques, marking a significant transformation in the island's cultural landscape.
Source: Alafehi Retreat
Photo by Ibrahim Assad
The Gen Miskiy mosque, crafted from elegant coral stone, stands as a testament to Fuvahmulah's rich history. Believed to be one of the oldest mosques on the island, it underwent adaptation following the conversion to Islam. The mosque's premises, including its meticulously structured water well and surrounding graveyard, served as sacred spaces where islanders performed rituals such as almsgiving and bestowing blessings upon their ancestors.
In the past, these holy sites were alive with the sounds of prayers, the aroma of burning incense sticks, and the sharing of communal feasts featuring local delicacies. These gatherings not only fostered spiritual connections but also strengthened bonds within the community, fostering a sense of unity and belonging.
While the tradition of almsgiving and incense-burning recitals ceased in the early 1980s, the spirit of community and tradition endures. Annual feasts continue to be held near the Thoondu beach, adjacent to the mosque's compound, serving as a reminder of the island's vibrant cultural heritage and the enduring legacy of its past.
Photo by Visit Fuvahmulah
Conclusion
In the heart of the Maldives lies a hidden gem, Fuvahmulah, a place where the sands whisper tales of ancient civilisations and the waves echo the secrets of the sea. As we journeyed through the island's landscapes and delved into its vibrant culture, we discovered that Fuvahmulah is not just a destination; it's a treasure trove of archaeological wonders waiting to be unearthed.
One of the most fascinating chapters in Fuvahmulah's story unfolds with the visit of Thor Heyerdahl, the renowned Norwegian anthropologist, in the early 1980s. Heyerdahl's expedition to the southernmost reaches of the Maldives unearthed a wealth of prehistoric evidence, sparking a new understanding of the island's rich history. Among his remarkable discoveries was a sunken enclosure near Gen Miskiy mosque, a testament to the island's ancient past.
But perhaps the most intriguing revelation was the link Heyerdahl uncovered between Fuvahmulah and the legendary Redin people. According to local folklore, the Redin were a seafaring civilization renowned for their mastery of the ocean and their remarkable architectural feats. Heyerdahl's research suggested that these mythical figures may have once roamed the shores of Fuvahmulah, leaving behind a legacy of magnificent structures and intricate masonry.
As we reflect on Heyerdahl's findings, we're reminded of the profound connection between Fuvahmulah's geography and its cultural heritage. The island's unique position in the Equatorial Channel, its ancient ruins, and its vibrant community all point to a history rich with intrigue and possibility. Fuvahmulah beckons to explorers and adventurers, inviting them to uncover its hidden treasures and share its stories with the world.
So, as we bid farewell to the tale of this enchanting island, let us carry with us the spirit of discovery and the wonder of Fuvahmulah's past. May we continue to explore, to learn, and to celebrate the mysteries that lie beneath the waves and the sands, knowing that there are countless stories waiting to be told and adventures waiting to be had in this remarkable corner of the Maldives.
Photo by Nattu Adnan
Get ready to be amazed by Fuvahmulah's nature, culture, and lively marine life. You might dive with tiger sharks. You might explore pristine reefs and swim with thresher sharks. Or, you might immerse in the island's rich culture. Fuvahmulah offers an unforgettable experience. It will leave you in awe of its beauty and diversity.
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